Not satisfied with plain old, vanilla vegans, we have freegans, who dumpster dive for their non-animal lifestyle. Not something I’d do but each to their own. Then there was the vegansexuals who, I believe, would not participate in mixed relationships (that is, vegan and non-vegan). And now we have hegans.

Three years later, sipping a yerba mate latte at the Sherman Cafe in Union Square, the buff and bright-eyed McCain is the new face of veganism: men in their 40s and 50s embracing a restrictive lifestyle to look better, rectify a gluttonous past, or cheat death. They are hegans.

What’s so wrong with grumpy vegans?